https://m2.mtmt.hu/ eng 2026-08-27 04:58 JournalArticle 31639817 APPROVED true 0 false 2026-07-27T13:17:17.215+0000 2025-02-25T21:10:52.738+0000 2020-10-26T08:31:09.173+0000 true 10015193 Vári Erika /api/admin/10015193 Admin true 10015193 2025-02-25T21:10:53.554+0000 2025-02-25T21:10:53.554+0000 Admin 10063514 /api/admin/10063514 Mikola Katalin true 10063514 true 2024-03-28T14:01:58.895+0000 true false true 24 24 /api/publicationtype/24 PublicationType 1 true 24 JournalArticle true 10000059 Article true 24 24 /api/publicationtype/24 PublicationType 1 true 24 JournalArticle /api/subtype/10000059 Szakcikk SubType 101 true 10000059 true 1 /api/category/1 Category true 1 Fülemile, Ágnes Social Change, Dress and Identity Observations on the Disintegration of Peasant Culture as Exemplified by Rural Women’s Clothing in Hungary from the First World War to the End of the Kádár Era Socialism true false /api/journal/10004179 REVIEWED true true 10004179 true 10004179 true 1216-9803 1588-2586 Journal FOREIGN 65 1 107 186 107 80 2020 The article, based on extensive ethnographic fieldwork, studies the process of the disintegration of the traditional system of peasant costume in the 20<jats:sup>th</jats:sup> century in Hungary in the backdrop of its socio-historic context. There is a focused attention on the period during socialism from the late 1940s to the end of the Kádár era, also called <jats:italic>Gulyás communism</jats:italic>. In the examined period, the wearing and abandonment of folk costume in local peasant communities was primarily characteristic of women and an important part of women’s competence and decision-making. There was an age group that experienced the dichotomy of peasant heritage and the realities of socialist modernisation as a challenge in their own lifetime – which they considered a great watershed. The author interviewed both the last stewards of tradition who continued wearing costume for the rest of their lives and those who pioneered and implemented changes and abandoned peasant costume in favor of urban dress. The liminal period of change, the character and logic of the processes and motivations behind decision-making were still accessible in memory, and current dressing practices and the folklorism phenomena of the “afterlife” of costume could still be studied in real life. The study shows that costume was the focus point of women’s aspirations, attention, and life organization, and how the life paths of strong female personalities were articulated around clothing. It also reveals that there was a high level of self-awareness and strong emotional attachment in individual relationships to clothing in the rural context, similar to – or perhaps even exceeding – the fashion-conscious, individualized urban context. Examining the role of fashion, modernization, and individual decisions and attitudes in traditional clothing systems is an approach that bridges the mostly distinct study of folk costume and the problematics of dress and fashion history research. true false NATIONAL 2020 false true true false true false GOLD 2026-07-27 true https://doi.org/10.1556/022.2020.00007 11 0 11 11 9 3 9 0 1 1 1 1 1 11 0 0 11 11 11 11 0 25 25 Folyóiratcikk Journal Article 24 7 Könyvrészlet Chapter in Book 25 4 Könyv Book 23 0 Egyéb konferenciaközlemény Conference paper 31 0 Egyéb konferenciakötet Conference proceedings 32 0 Oltalmi formák Protection forms 26 0 Disszertáció Thesis 28 0 Egyéb Miscellaneous 29 0 Alkotás Achievement 22 0 Kutatási adat Research data 33 0 Folyóiratcikk Journal Article 24 0 0 0 Könyvrészlet Chapter in Book 25 0 0 0 Könyv Book 23 0 0 0 Egyéb konferenciaközlemény Conference paper 31 0 0 0 Egyéb konferenciakötet Conference proceedings 32 0 0 0 Oltalmi formák Protection forms 26 0 0 0 Disszertáció Thesis 28 0 0 0 Egyéb Miscellaneous 29 0 0 0 Alkotás Achievement 22 0 0 0 Kutatási adat Research data 33 0 0 0 2020 0 1 1 1 1 2021 0 3 3 3 3 2022 0 0 0 0 0 2023 0 5 5 5 5 2024 0 1 1 1 1 2025 0 1 1 1 1 Q2 A false 10011847 false false false 2021-01-24T08:31:18.054+0000 Acta Ethnographica Hungarica szerkesztősége (Kiadók / MTA KFB); Néprajztudományi Intézet (HRN BTK) 1 10 2 1 0 false 10063514 Language 10002 /api/language/10002 Angol English true 2 true PersonAuthorship 96852028 /api/authorship/96852028 1 1.0 true false Author 10011847 /api/author/10011847 Fülemile Ágnes true 10011847 true Fülemile Ágnes true false false AuthorshipType 1 /api/authorshiptype/1 0 true 0 true false true Institute 22305 /api/institute/22305 0 false false true Acta Ethnographica Hungarica szerkesztősége Editorial Office of the Acta Ethnographica Hungarica true true PublicationIdentifier 18589287 /api/publicationidentifier/18589287 PlainSource 6 /api/publicationsource/6 PublicationSourceType 10001 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Demográfiai Osztályközi Állandó Bizottság Committee on Demography true 19060 true true true D nemzetközi true 20098 true SjrRating 10859755 /api/sjrrating/10859755 70 0.49 journal RatingType 10002 /api/ratingtype/10002 sjr true true ClassificationExternal 1210 /api/classificationexternal/1210 true 1210 true Q2 DIRECT true true /api/publication/31639817 <div class="JournalArticle Publication long-list"> <div class="authors"> <img title="Forrásközlemény" style="float: left" src="/frontend/resources/grid/publication-core-icon.png"> <img title="Idézőközlemény" style="float: left" src="/frontend/resources/grid/publication-citation-icon.png"> <div class="autype autype0"> <span class="author-name" mtid="10011847"><a href="/gui2/?type=authors&mode=browse&sel=10011847" target="_blank">Fülemile Ágnes (<span class="authorship-author-name">Fülemile Ágnes</span> <span class="authorAux-mtmt"> Történeti és társadalomnéprajz</span>) </a> </span> <span class="author-affil"><span title="Research Centre for the Humanities">RCH</span>/Institute of Ethnology</span> </div> </div> <div class="title"><a href="/gui2/?mode=browse&params=publication;31639817" target="_blank">Social Change, Dress and Identity : Observations on the Disintegration of Peasant Culture as Exemplified by Rural Women’s Clothing in Hungary from the First World War to the End of the Kádár Era Socialism.</a></div> <div> <span class="journal-title">ACTA ETHNOGRAPHICA HUNGARICA</span> <span class="journal-issn">(<a target="_blank" href="https://portal.issn.org/resource/ISSN/1216-9803">1216-9803</a> <a target="_blank" href="https://portal.issn.org/resource/ISSN/1588-2586">1588-2586</a>)</span>: <span class="journal-volume">65</span> <span class="journal-issue">1</span> <span class="page"> pp 107-186 </span> <span class="year">(2020)</span> </div> <div class="pub-footer"> <span class="language" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/html">Language: English | </span> <span class="identifiers"> <span class="id identifier oa_GOLD" title=" Gold "> <a style="color:blue" title="10.1556/022.2020.00007" target="_blank" href="https://doi.org/10.1556/022.2020.00007"> DOI </a> </span> <span class="id identifier oa_GREEN" title=" Green "> <a style="color:blue" title="123331" target="_blank" href="https://real.mtak.hu/123331"> REAL </a> </span> <span class="id identifier oa_none" title="none"> <a style="color:blue" title="85099204776" target="_blank" href="http://www.scopus.com/record/display.url?origin=inward&eid=2-s2.0-85099204776"> Scopus </a> </span> </span> <OnlyViewableByAuthor><div class="ratings"> <div class="journal-subject">Journal subject: Scopus - Music&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Rank:&nbsp;Q2</div> <div class="journal-subject">Journal subject: Scopus - Cultural Studies&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Rank:&nbsp;Q3</div> <div class="journal-subject">Journal subject: Scopus - Demography&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Rank:&nbsp;Q4</div> <div class="journal-subject">Committee on Ethnography HASSLLSI [1901-]&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;A</div> <div class="journal-subject">Committee on Art History HASSPHSII MTB [1901-]&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;A</div> <div class="journal-subject">Committee on Archaeology HASSPHSII RTB [1901-]&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;A</div> <div class="journal-subject">Committee on Sociology HASSELIX SZTB [1901-]&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;B hazai</div> <div class="journal-subject">Committee on Demography HASSELIX DEM [1901-]&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;D nemzetközi</div> </div></OnlyViewableByAuthor> <div class="publication-citation" style="margin-left: 0.5cm;"> <span title="" class="citingPub-count">Citing papers: 11</span> | Independent citation: 11 | Self citation: 0 | Unknown citation: 0 | Number of citations in Scopus:&nbsp;1 | WoS/Scopus assigned:&nbsp;1 | Number of citations with DOI:&nbsp;9 </div> <div class="publication-citation"> <a target="_blank" href="/api/publication?cond=citations.related;eq;31639817&sort=publishedYear,desc&sort=title"> Number of cited publications: 25 </a> </div> <div class="mtid"><span class="long-pub-mtid">Publication: 31639817</span> | <span class="status-data status-APPROVED"> Published </span> Core Citing | <span class="type-subtype">Journal Article ( Article ) </span> | <span class="pub-category">Scientific</span> | <span class="publication-sourceOfData">kézi felvitel</span> </div> <div class="special-affiliations"> Special affiliation: Editorial Office of the Acta Ethnographica Hungarica </div> <div class="lastModified">Last Modified: 2025.02.25. 22:10 Gusztáv Ladányi (MTMT API user, admin) </div> <div class="lockedBy">Centrally managed 2024.03.28. 15:01 Katalin Mikola (MTMT 3, admin) </div> </div></div>